New relex rail

right ive just stripped down the new reflex rail and compaired it to my old whitch i know shots perfect.
the only differnce on them is the trigger and asa.

ive compared the bolts together and found that the bolt on the new one seems to stick when you try to push the bolt back fom being fully out, when on the old bolt its free flowing with no sticking what so ever. on further inspetion ive found its the back center part of the bolt. The o ring has misshaped and swollen causing the bolt to stick.
If you look on page 17 and look on the internal diagram u should see the inner o ring marked as 4 of the manual.
i have replaced this o ring and the bolt slides a hell of a lot better now.

so fingers crossed that this is the problem we are haveing.

i know kai was problems with the bolt sticking today and i know we were all breaking paint on most games.
So i hope this helps

Good tip mate, will look into it when i can bearsed to strip my gun

I have been told a dodgy battery can case all types of hassle, especially in the rails. And since we all used the same box of batteries we may have all had a dodgy, or old battery. we don't know how long they were in the shop for.

Also stripped my bolt too and found it a bit stiff. I lubed it up again and changed the o-ring mentioned above for good measure. Lets hope that works.

I have also found out that the rails stock barrel is .688 where as the e-tek3 I used last year was a .693 (same as most planet eclipse stock barrels I believe and I also believe most of us were using this size barrel last year?) so this may have caused an issue.

But hay I am just saying ifs and maybes lets see what happens next tourney

I used the original battery and its not reacting like a flat battery. usually when the battery is low the eyes will stop working , the balls would chop against the top of the bolt and paint would go into the rotor. The paint was breaking in the barrel.
the only way a ball would brake in barrel the way we have seen is the bolt sticks when in ramp, causing one or two shots shooting at low pressure then freeing off then next shot at a higher pressure.
So its basically shooting two ball at once.
The other thing is dirt in the barrel or incorrect bore size.
But I did roll several balls down the barrel on the day with no problems and we definitely cleaned our barrels

But trouble I had in last game was it not shooting. And my eye cover was painted up nice so I thought that may be an issue.

Also I saw you do that but when I changed my barrel I tried and the balls were getting stuck half way down. In the end I had to push it out. I was led to believe that paint could change slightly throughout the day, and I was having more trouble near the end, hence I sat out game before last.

well I thought ill give it a try with different dye UL backs tonight.
I've found that the paint fire through the 684 with no problems at all.
I've also noticed that in the manual dye advise that the ball should not roll down the barrel on their own.
So looking more like its the pressure from the bolt.
I've also try the bolt from my old rail into the new one and found that it fires a lot better.
So all I'm going to advise is to use a thinner grease like the eclipse grease and keep a eye on the seals.
It may take a while before the bolts to run in properly. Or upgrade the bolt but that involves more cost.

Just a quick note from experience, dye sticky lube is crap, if u still have some use eclipse grease. The dye stuff is too thick especially in cold weather. Pull the bolt out regrease it with eclipse, go out and buy a decent Duracell pro cell and give it a go. Also the ball wants to be a snug fit, it shouldn't just roll through. Ideally you should be blowing it through with your mouth, don't forget the pressure coming out will be a light higer than u blowing it.
If the battery is going flat or crap you will get all sorts of issues, broken paint erratic velocity, not shoot at all.
With rails having only led and not a screen don't rely on the led showing up as a flat battery. There could still be enough power In it to keep the board alive but not activate the solenoid correctly. You can't always take what voltage is left in it either as it is the amp age that is important, it could still be reading 8.9v and because of a poor battery be putting out next to none amps.

Try these things at home and I should be at the next tournie, and will have a look at if u still having issues.

Another thing how many boxes of paint did u get at a time, was it left in a bucket, did u rotate your pots and keep a jacket on in between gAmes over the top of your pack. All these things need to be taken into consideration due cg is a very good paint but needs to be kept constant and even a slight change in temp and it will go very brittle. Don't forget during the summer it was still breaking at knee height, so imagine how brittle during the winter

Jc

Thanks, but I don't have anywhere I can safely shoot my marker. My back yard is tiny. Unless anyone has a suggestion? And I have used the eclipse oil instead now so let's hope that was all it was.
When it worked it was great

I had one round were the rail shot amazingly well but ran out of paint at the end of the game. When the rail works it works brilliantly and when this happens it makes me happy.

I agree when it worked it put a smile on your face

We will get them all to work! I'm on site Saturday if anyone wants to come up.

I do know 2 people getting a kit deal at th end of the month I fancy playing again and as I'm putting in upto 16 hours a day I think I deserve to lol.


Holly is it eclipse grease or oil you have?

try techt gun lube.....ebay £9.95 a bit much but worth it and it lasts as you only need a small amount....had mine for 13 months now used on ego's and proto pmr/rail and geo's......never had a problem.

Oil Jon. And I would come down on Saturday but I am on a day shift :-(

holly dont use oil, it needs to be grease, oil will actually cause vthe o rings to swell slightly

Ok will have to get some grease then thanks